Autumn, as they say, is the time when we harvest. Although, we often harvest a part of this very crop in the summer. These are early varieties of vegetables and those vegetables that fully ripen in summer.

Today we will talk about cleaning, too, a fairly popular culture, namely pepper , both sweet and bitter.

Here the variety, of course, plays a role in the ripening of this culture, but still, there are general points by which you can determine the degree of maturity of any variety of pepper.

Rules for harvesting peppers in the greenhouse and in the open field

You should always remove peppers on time. But, this very "in time" is mainly determined by the kind of pepper that you grow and what you do it for. This is what determines the ripeness of the pepper.

Two types of pepper ripeness. What and how are they determined?

So, as we have already determined, there are only two of these types. This is the so-called technical ripeness. When it comes, the pepper is removed from the beds, if they are going to keep it stored, transported, or later sold.

There is biological ripeness, this is ripeness, which is called real, in another way it can also be called physiological. This is the type of ripeness you need if, for example, you decide to cut pepper into a salad.

When technically ripe, the pepper is usually greenish. This "greenness" can be dark, lighter, up to white. Also, with technical ripeness, the pepper can be yellow, but this is quite rare.

Biological maturity is more familiar to us. At this stage, the peppers can be of different colors. It is bright yellow, often red (the most familiar color for many of us), orange, sometimes lilac and other colors.

When to remove bell peppers and how to store them

If you grow sweet pepper (aka Bulgarian), which is also called vegetable, then you need to know these two types of its ripeness and be sure to be able to distinguish them. It happens that the bell peppers could not be removed on time.

At the same time, he is already biologically matured. Then you need to do something with it as soon as you remove it from the branch, because you will not be able to keep it for a long time.

Ripe bell peppers are just really bad. If you "did not miss" the sweet pepper and decided to collect it early, that is, when it is ripe, but only technical, then you can put it in storage.

If you store it in a suitable place, then there it can lie completely for up to 2 months and slowly ripen.

If you need a ripe pepper, then just take it out of the refrigerator (or from the cellar), put it in a well-lit place and very soon its color will change to a mature version.

How to remove hot pepper and how to store it?

It is best to remove the bitter pepper when it is already biologically mature. This way you can better save it. Indeed, in this state, the wall of the pod becomes thinner and no longer so fleshy.

So, the pod will dry out faster, and, therefore, will not rot. The burning substance that is present in the pods contributes to the successful drying of the pod, and therefore its safety.

It is a kind of natural preservative. There is much more of this substance in ripe pods than in those that have not yet reached this ripeness.

If you know all these subtleties, then the pungency of hot pepper pods can be, as it were, regulated. Perhaps you do not need a very bitter pepper at all.

Then it is quite possible to rip it off early, that is, when it is only at the stage of technical ripeness. If you like a very hot pepper, then you need to wait until it is fully ripe.

There are no peculiarities and difficulties in pepper harvesting. The main thing is to take care of the preservation of the harvest in time, correctly determine the harvesting time and correctly lay vegetables for the winter. In August, a noticeable cold snap is already possible, so do not miss the moment to harvest. Affected low temperatures the fruits will not last long. For better preservation, you need to remove the pepper in technical ripeness, to obtain germinating seeds - in biological.

When to remove bell peppers?

The timing of harvesting peppers will differ depending on whether the soil is open or protected, and under what climatic conditions it grows.

• Peppers require a temperature of 20-28 ° C for optimal growth and development.
• At a temperature of 15 ° C, the plant stops vegetating, and at temperatures close to zero, the plant dies.
• There are concepts of technical and biological ripeness of pepper.
• You can harvest at any stage.

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The technical harvest is characterized by the fact that the pepper:

• gained weight,
• reached a certain size for a variety,
• became elastic
• but its seeds have not yet ripened,
• and the fruit did not acquire its varietal color.

1. It is recommended to harvest the peppers precisely in technical ripeness, so you will get large yields throughout the season.
2. Indeed, when we harvest fruits in technical ripeness, new fruits grow faster on the plant, and then the yield increases significantly.
3. For a quick ripening of peppers harvested at the stage of technical ripeness, place 1-2 ripe fruits in a box with vegetables. In this case, the fruits can be both the pepper itself and other ripe vegetables that emit ethylene, which serves as a ripening catalyst. Both red apples and tomatoes will noticeably help the peppers to reach biological ripeness.

When the pepper reaches biological ripeness:

• its fruits acquire the full color characteristic of the variety or hybrid - red, orange, yellow, purple, etc.
• Biologically ripe fruits contain more vitamin C and P vitamins, as well as carotenoids (substances important for the body).

Bringing sweet pepper to biological ripeness on a bush adds another 20-25 days to the ripening of fruits

1. Therefore, it makes sense to harvest the biological crop of pepper only to obtain seeds, it is in such peppers that they are fully ripe with good germination. Do not forget that seeds can be collected from varietal peppers, but it is undesirable to collect seeds from hybrids.
2. In general, fruits harvested in biological ripeness are stored in the same way as fruits in technical ripeness, just with technical ripeness they will lie longer with you and can wait for their biological ripeness.
3. Peppers collected in biological maturity are usually eaten immediately.

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How to properly remove bell peppers

Pepper must be handled carefully, it has a very brittle bush and fragile stems, so try not to damage the plant when harvesting.

1. It is convenient to cut off the fruits of the pepper with a sharp knife or pruner, supporting the stem itself.
2. In the greenhouse, it is recommended to harvest the fruits 2 times a week, starting in mid-July.
3. Dense fruits with a glossy shine are ready for harvesting - they have technical ripeness.
4. The wall thickness of the pepper depends more on the variety than on the ripeness of the fruit and can be from 5 to 12 mm. It is believed that the thicker the wall, the tastier the peppers.
5. After cutting the fruit, you can remove the lower leaves on the pepper plant.

How to store bell peppers

• Before storing, inspect all vegetables - the fruits should be healthy, without cracks and other damage from diseases and pests.
• Crumpled, gnawed and diseased fruits will not last long, it is better to process them and eat them first in the near future.
• When preparing peppers for long-term storage, they should not be washed; you can simply shake off the dirt or wipe them with a dry cloth.
• Ripe sweet peppers are stored in plastic bags or boxes, sprinkled with sawdust.
• It is best to store peppers in a special room - in a cellar, shed, vegetable store with a temperature of 6 to 12 ° C.

- temperatures 8-10 ° C;
- high humidity 95-97%.

How to store bell peppers at home

1. If you store peppers at home, choose a well-ventilated area with high humidity.
2. This can be a box or a rack near the balcony.
3. In this case, it is better to place the pepper closer to the floor, where the humidity is presumably higher and the draft is walking.
4. You can additionally wrap each pepper with a napkin or paper - this way the vegetables will last even longer.

In vegetable gardens and summer cottages, growing peppers is just as popular as growing tomatoes. Basically, it is sweet (Bulgarian) pepper, but spicy lovers often plant bitter ones. The harvesting of the two varieties is different. Therefore, it is worth understanding all the nuances.

Different degrees of ripeness of a leguminous vegetable

Different varieties have different ripening periods. Some are early, others are later. But both those and others have two types of ripeness: technical and biological. Technical ripeness occurs in 50-60 days from the moment of planting the seedlings (depending on the variety). The fruits are large, juicy and poured, but the color is not yet intense and has not reached the color indicated on the package. That is, mostly green or slightly yellow.

These vegetables can (and should) be plucked for further consumption, storage or processing. But biological ripeness comes about a month after the technical one. Such fruits are brightly colored, have a persistent characteristic aroma, are filled with maximum number vitamins and other nutrients. They are plucked for processing or consumption. But such fruits are not stored for a long time. They are used first.

When and how to collect bell peppers

As soon as the first large fruits appear on the stem, they can already be picked and consumed. This moment comes from the beginning of August. Mass collection takes place in August and September. Important nuances when plucking pepper:

• The fruits are harvested in technical ripeness with constant regularity.
• Gently cut the peppers with scissors, together with the stalk, and do not pick them off by hand. The fragile stem of the plant can be easily damaged, so it should be supported.
• Harvest in 5-7 days, as new fruits grow. The principle of harvesting is similar to that of cucumbers.
• Leaving large peppers on the bush for biological ripening, new fruits will not be able to massively develop, and the overall yield will decrease.
• With the onset of frost, you need to remove all the pepper from the garden. Since this plant does not tolerate minus temperatures.
• You can pick off all fruits from the plant, sort by ripeness stage and store in cool rooms.

Bitter is not always nasty. Harvesting hot peppers

Lovers of bitterness and a fiery state in the mouth often deal with hot pepper, growing it on their plots. This vegetable has the same ripeness stages as the sweet member of the species.

It should be remembered that by cutting off the pods in the technical ripeness, you can get the fruits of average pungency. Thus, the necessary bitterness is regulated: picking off small green peppers, we get a slightly spicy vegetable. And red, ripe, long peppers are the hottest and bitter ones. It is in biological ripeness that bitter pepper should be stored, in contrast to its sweet congener.

Thus, when growing peppers in the open field, it is necessary to regularly harvest the fruits at the technical stage of ripening, in order to obtain the maximum yield.

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If you cared for your plantings properly, you will surely have a good harvest. And now the hottest time is coming - you need to have time to collect the fruits of your labors and save them.

Harvesting of peppers is possible both in the state of technical and in the state of biological maturity. In the first case, after collecting sweet peppers, the fruits should be consumed immediately. In the second - leave to ripen.

Peppers usually begin to bear fruit abundantly in mid-August.

It is better to cut the fruits with a pruner together with the stalk, and not break off, since the stems of the pepper are very fragile and the whole shoot can be damaged.

Harvesting sweet pepper

Technical maturity. The fruits have reached their normal size, but not yet ripe. During this period, they are collected for sale, transportation and storage. During the period of technical maturity, sweet peppers are harvested.

Such a crop can be dark green and even white, or slightly yellowish, although there are exceptions.

At technical maturity, the fruits are cut every 5-10 days. The pepper is picked selectively before the first cold weather sets in. With their onset, it is removed completely.

Fruits harvested in a state of technical maturity, when proper storage can lie up to 2 months and ripen. If they are removed from the storage area and placed in a well-lit place, then very soon the pepper will acquire a color characteristic of the biological maturity of the fruit.

Biological maturity. This is the real ripeness of the fruit, it is also called physiological. At biological maturity, the fruits become bright - red, yellow, orange, brown, etc.

If the sweet pepper harvest for any reason was harvested during biological maturity, then the fruits should be used immediately, since they will not be stored for a long time.

There are varieties that are harvested only when the crop reaches full biological maturity. These include hot peppers. It is harvested as it ripens.

Harvesting is done every 4-5 days. Fruits not harvested on time lead to the termination of branching, which negatively affects the amount of the crop.

How to store peppers after harvest: ripening fruits

Ripening of fruits. For storage of bell peppers, fruits of technical maturity are selected. Before laying them for ripening, they must be sorted out and sorted to get rid of the damaged ones. Thin-walled peppers are best kept in refrigerators. The fruit stem is cut off, leaving a small tip.

How to store peppers at home to enjoy the fruits for as long as possible? For storage use various containers - from boxes to plastic bags. Polyethylene does not allow air to pass through, and forms inside the bag carbon dioxide... Under these conditions of storage of bell peppers, the products remain in the best condition. In addition, each fruit can be wrapped in paper or other material, and special plastic packaging is used for transportation and further sale.

Peppers are often stored in basements or cold rooms. Temperature is important. The optimum is 8-10 ° C.

Temperature and storage conditions for bell peppers for seeds

How to store the peppers after harvest if you are going to get seeds from them for subsequent planting?

Fruit for seeds. To get good seeds, you only need to grow one variety of pepper. To do this, in the summer, several of the healthiest plants are selected in advance and the best fruit is taken from each.

The fruits are harvested when they are fully ripe and left indoors when room temperature... Thin-walled varieties can withstand 5-6 days, thick-walled ones - no more than three. Then the seeds are separated from the pulp and dried at 50 ° C, after which they are folded into paper bags and stored in a dry room. The storage temperature of the pepper in this case is 20 ° C.

Selected seeds should be large, healthy in appearance and coloring. It is important that even if the storage conditions are observed, germination is lost after 1-2 years.

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Greenhouse and outdoor pepper care

When growing and caring for peppers - both sweet and spicy varieties - it is necessary to ensure the optimum temperature and humidity. Of course, most plants prefer milder, greenhouse conditions, but in warm climates, it is possible to plant crops in open ground. Productivity in this case will depend on decent care and favorable weather conditions.

Greenhouse pepper care: watering, feeding, molding

Greenhouse pepper maintenance is all about maintaining optimal temperature regime, regular watering, top dressing, weeding and loosening.

Temperature conditions. The air temperature in the greenhouse during the period from planting to full fruiting should be maintained at 21-28 ° С during the day and 15 ° С at night. Then the daytime temperature is reduced by 1-2 ° C.

When caring for pepper, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated by opening doors, vents, and transoms in it. In summer, when the temperature outside rises above 30 ° C, the glass cover of the greenhouse is sprayed with a suspension of chalk or shaded with light wooden gratings.

Watering the peppers is done 2-3 times a week at the root. Pepper is hygrophilous, 1-2 liters of water are consumed per plant. Plants are spud with moist soil. After the ground dries up, the aisles are loosened.

Fertilizing and feeding. Top dressing of pepper is carried out twice a month. 10-20 g of potassium chloride, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate and 30-40 g of superphosphate are diluted in 10 liters of water. After feeding the pepper in the greenhouse, the soil is watered clean waterotherwise you can burn the leaves. Instead of mineral fertilizers, plants are sometimes fed with organic matter: a solution of slurry or bird droppings with the addition of 150-200 g of wood ash per 10 liters of solution.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering peppers from 9 am to 11 am. Frequent and prolonged drying of the soil, as well as its strong waterlogging, must not be allowed, since the plant reacts to both dryness of the soil and its waterlogging.

Pollination. During the flowering period, the peppers are shaken daily to ensure better pollination.

Bush formation. In order to grow pepper as a vertical crop, the bush begins to form at the first fork. When forming, two shoots are left in the first branch, which will be central. Subsequently, in each of the nodes, two shoots are left: vertical (central) and external additional. In this way, the bush is formed to a height of 1-1.2 m.

Outdoor pepper care: watering, feeding, protection

Taking care of peppers in the open field consists of watering, loosening the soil, feeding and protecting from frost.

Watering. The first time the pepper is watered immediately after planting. The second time is in 5-6 days. In the future, it is watered every 7-10 days. First, 1-1.5 liters of water are consumed per plant, then the rate is increased to 1.5-2 liters. Watering is stopped 2-3 weeks before the last harvest.

Loosening. The soil is loosened after each rain and watering until the soil begins to dry out and become crusty.

Fertilizing and feeding. Pepper is fed 3-4 times during the growing season, starting from the 10-15th day after transplanting. When feeding peppers in the open field, use a slurry solution (for 1 part of fertilizer 4-5 parts of water) or bird droppings (1 part of fertilizer for 12-15 parts of water). In addition, 150-200 g of wood ash, 40-60 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride are added to 10 liters of the solution. When carrying out mineral feeding, in addition to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, ammonium nitrate is added under the pepper (15-20 g per 10 l of fertilizer solution).

Frost protection. Heat-loving peppers are protected from frost with the help of temporary shelters-tents made of boards, cardboard, burlap, matting, roofing material or other materials at hand. Portable film shelters are also popular. In severe frosts, the film is additionally covered with burlap or rags. Smoke and sprinkling are used.

Bush formation. During the growing season, too long shoots of pepper are shortened. All unnecessary branches shading the crown of the bush are cut out. Without fail, remove all shoots located below the main fork of the stem, as well as branches growing inside the crown. Pruning is carried out once a week, after harvesting.

Harvesting, storage and processing of peppers

Harvesting of pepper is carried out in a state of technical ripeness (the fruit has already formed, but has not reached the color and size characteristic of this variety), as well as in a state of biological ripeness (the fruit fully corresponds to its varietal characteristics). Usually 20-30 days pass between technical and biological ripeness. Ripe fruits crackle when touched. The first crop of pepper is harvested in mid-August and held every 6-8 days until frost. Before freezing, all fruits are removed from the bush. They are sorted according to the degree of ripeness and, if necessary, laid for ripening. Hot peppers are harvested when the fruits are dry and red. You cannot pick the peppers with your hands, as you can damage the fruit or the stalk, which will lead to rotting of the pod. Therefore, the stalks are cut with a knife.

Like most vegetables, peppers are poorly kept, and if stored poorly, the fruits rot after two days. Under the right conditions, peppers can be stored even longer than tomatoes and eggplant. Thin-walled peppers are best kept in the refrigerator. Part of the stem is cut off from the fruit, leaving a small tip. The fruits should be free of traces of diseases, damage, cracks and dents.

The storage of peppers is carried out in plastic bags, or the fruits are put in boxes and sprinkled with sawdust. The fruits are stored for up to 2 months. Ripe peppers are kept at a temperature of 1-2 ° C, unripe peppers - at 10-12 ° C.

The seeds are harvested at the stage of full biological ripeness. They are left for 3-4 weeks, after which they are cut around the calyx and the stalk with seeds is removed. Within 3-4 days it is kept at a temperature of 25-30 ° C, and then the seeds are separated. They are folded into a paper bag and stored in a cool dry place. Pepper seeds are stored for 5-6 years.

The fruits of sweet pepper are consumed fresh, pickled, canned, dried, fried, boiled, stewed. It is also possible to process peppers into caviar, puree, vegetable snacks.

In preparation for drying, the core is removed from the peppers, washed thoroughly. Then cut the pulp into pieces measuring 1.5 x 1.5 or 2 x 2 cm, blanch them in a boiling 1% salt solution for 1-2 minutes, let the water drain and put on a sieve. Dried at a temperature of 60-70 ° C for 3-5 hours. To obtain 1 kg of dried pepper, you need to take 10-12 kg of fresh.

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Growing pepper in your own greenhouse

Various varieties of peppers are used in many dishes around the world. In addition to being canned, stuffed, added to salads and exquisite masterpieces from famous chefs, it contains great amount vitamins and trace elements important for the human body.

Growing pepper in greenhouses involves painstaking work with knowledge of all aspects of the business, as well as early and rich harvest... So that all undertakings in such difficult work do not go down the drain, it is important to know the basic nuances:

Pepper varieties for greenhouse cultivation

When buying seeds, it is important to read the information on the label, in which the manufacturer indicates the basic principles and conditions for growing a particular variety. It is also necessary to decide on the purpose of growing, that is, how ripe vegetables will be used in the future:

• for conservation;
• for consumption raw;
• for the preparation of various dishes and salads.

It should be remembered that "Astrakhan" or "Elephant hobo" are unlikely to be suitable for stuffing or preparing such culinary dishes, since are spicy varieties... If the task is to grow just such a pepper, then they go well with greenhouses and early ripening.

The most popular sweet varieties for greenhouse cultivation are:

1. Ermak can produce two full-fledged harvests per year. A ripe vegetable reaches 250 g.
2. "Gladiator" is an equally popular large-fruited variety among gardeners. It has a yellow color, thick walls and a fleshy consistency.
3. "Medal" can be classified as a classic greenhouse cultivar. With the appearance of the first ripe vegetables, flowering does not stop, therefore it bears fruit all year round. The fruits reach a weight of 150 grams and are red in color.
4. "Black Cardinal". Distinctive feature fruit - eggplant color, so it is difficult to confuse it with other varieties. It always attracts attention and makes a kind of decorative contribution for any greenhouse.

It is impossible not to remember about "Alyonushka", "Buratino", "Winnie the Pooh", "California miracle", "Tenderness", "Swallow" - so well-known early ripening varieties, which appear more and more every year.

Growing and caring for pepper seedlings

Due to the rather long germination of seeds, peppers, as a rule, are grown by seedlings. The first shoots can appear only two weeks after planting, so they are sown in early spring.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to acquire containers for seedlings and purchase or prepare the soil yourself.

Main component - it is better to take the soil from the garden, where onions, cabbage, carrots or pumpkin previously grew, carefully sort or sift through a sieve. Pepper at any stage of development needs organic feeding, so rotted manure or moistened compost is added to the soil.

Ready-made containers for seedlings can be purchased in specialized stores or you can design yourself from wood, paper, plastic, etc. The main thing is to take care of drainage and air circulation by making several holes in the bottom.

For the full development of seedlings, it is recommended to adhere to a distance between seeds of 1–2 cm. After sowing, the soil surface is covered with a small layer of dry compost, and for creating a greenhouse effect the box is covered with transparent glass or plastic wrap.

With timely watering and regular feeding, the first shoots appear in 2-3 weeks. In the future, it is necessary to adhere to a temperature of at least + 21 ° C, and the lid from the box can be removed.

Saplings dive into separate pots with the appearance of 2-3 leaves, experienced gardeners recommend planting them in pairs - this contributes to faster development. If transplanted into a common container, the distance between plants should be at least 20 cm - for full development root system.

When the pepper reaches a height of 15 cm, the apical buds must be cut off. This is done in order to properly form the bush and to obtain lateral shoots.

Large green leaves of seedlings are a sign of full development with an abundance of moisture and organic matter. Lack of light can lead to the appearance of weak shoots, which are unlikely to give a good harvest in the future.

Preparing the soil and replanting pepper to the greenhouse

It is better to take soil for growing peppers in greenhouses from under onions, cabbage, pumpkin, carrots or zucchini. If the greenhouse structure itself is not built in a designated place, then there is always an option to transfer the land from the garden to the required place.

If seen in old soil signs of fungus or mold, it is better to remove it completely. Even the smallest remnants of an unwanted manifestation can quickly spread throughout the greenhouse.

The term for planting pepper seedlings in the greenhouse is April or 60-70 days from the moment of sowing. Each variety has its own nuances, which are indicated in the information on the label, but the basic rules are followed for all varieties:

• The soil temperature in the greenhouse must be at least + 15 ° C, and the air temperature - at least + 20 ° C.
• For the full development of seedlings, the necessary distance between the rows is 80 cm, between the plants - 20 cm. As a rule, the pepper is planted with a two-line ribbon.
• When the stem reaches a tangible size, it must be tied up so that the bush forms correctly and does not lie down on the garden bed. To do this, you can use both separate wooden pegs for each plant, and an independently constructed strip structure of two supports located at the edges of the row, and a string stretched between them, which will hold the pepper in place.
• To get a rich harvest, it is necessary to leave only the strongest shoots.
• You should not wait until the soil is covered with a crust, but loosen the ground in time. This is necessary to provide the root system with sufficient oxygen. For the same purpose, soil is enriched with organic substances.
• It is recommended to regularly, but not over-water the pepper. Yellow-red spots on the leaves will indicate a lack of moisture.
• It is advisable to keep the same temperature in the greenhouse so that the plants do not experience unwanted stressful situations.
• It is important to take care of sufficient lighting, which is necessary for full development and facilitates faster ripening of fruits.

Special attention should be turned to the feeding stage - for different varieties it differs and this, as a rule, is indicated in the information about a particular variety of pepper. Also, details and nuances of feeding can be checked with seed distributors.

At the initial stages of growing pepper, it is better to resort to ammonia fertilizers, when the plant begins to bear fruit - to phosphorus.

Secrets from experienced gardeners

Each business has its own secrets, growing pepper in greenhouses is no exception:

Rarely, but there are cases cross-pollination even when growing different varieties in separate greenhouses. This is due to the transfer of pollen by insects that operate throughout the entire area and can fly into both one and the second greenhouses through windows or a window. And in order to avoid unwanted crossing of bitter and sweet peppers, greenhouses with their seedlings are placed as far as possible.

Harvesting and Seed

It is better to harvest the fruits immediately upon reaching the required size and color. To do this, use a sharp knife or scissors and cut it off along with the leg. Since a ripe vegetable is fragile, the entire procedure should be carried out carefully without rushing.

Pepper reaches ripeness in 20-25 days and continues to bear fruit even for a certain period - depending on the cultivated variety.

For seeds, select several of the largest fruits, usually located on or near the third tier from the ground. Do not rush to cut them, since the seed fruits should ripen well.

In order for the seeds to eventually turn out to be of high quality for planting, at the stage of their ripening, all nearby fruits and ovaries are removed. After the seeds are cut, they are wrapped in paper or placed in paper bags until they are completely dry.

The dried fruit is cut and remove the seeds, which are then placed in paper bags. For convenience, it is advisable to write the name of the variety and the date of collection on the back of the bag. The recommended shelf life for seeds is three years, but older seeds can yield a good harvest.

It is rare to find a garden plot without the presence of beds with pepper. This feature is primarily associated with taste, as well as useful qualities ripe vegetable. Most gardeners are trying to get a harvest as soon as possible, so they build greenhouses on their plots. But to collect an enviable crop, you need to know and always resort to the basic rules and features of growing pepper.

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harvesting sweet pepper. How many times do you need to harvest sweet pepper fruits?

Alexei

Pepper fruits are recommended to be removed when the fruit turns from green to white in color and starts to turn pink or yellow a little. Then it's time to film it. If removed fully ripe, red or orange as it should be, then the pepper plant stops pouring and setting other fruits and the total yield is less. Because the task of the pepper is to give offspring, and not to feed us with its fruits. Therefore, the bush throws all its strength into growing this first fruit, and the rest is not in a hurry. Therefore, remove the white, lightly colored fruits in time as they emerge to stimulate the peppers to produce more and more fruits.

Lydia

When it comes to the desired size and how much will be on the bush, as much
and shoot. He's not eternal.

Alyonushka

Hmm ... As the saying goes: What you sow is what you reap - everything will be yours and as many times as you succeeded))

Forget-me-not

Until they run out on a bush ..

Georg1945 Egorych

To check the ripeness of the pepper. you need to squeeze the fruit in the palm of your hand. if it crunches. then ready.