In this article, the topic of how to make a chair with your own hands will be considered in detail with the drawings and instructions. You will certainly like these comfortable wood chairs with a high bent back and soft seat.
Regardless of whether you will make a couple of such products or a whole set of six chairs, you will be able to evaluate the simplicity and reliability of the design.
- Ostroject boards up to 38 mm thick for the front a and rear in the legs of the chair. Follow the leg on the board, and to reduce the number of waste, have them groups. Boot size A - 38x38x419 - 2 pcs., Boot size B before leveling - 38x108x1032 mm - 2 pcs.
Click to enlarge
- Tape saw blade the blanks of the rear legs to the sizes specified in the drawing. Collect the contour rear and front legs. Cut their upper ends perpendicular to the front side. Otherwise, the manufactured stool of wood will be unstable.
- Squeeze the nests for spikes on the front and rear legs. Make sure the legs are symmetrical and mirrored. Below is a small instruction, how to make nests yourself.
Use the forster drill 6 mm, hold it in the cartridge of the drilling machine or drill. Drill wood in nests
Guiding the chisel to perpendicularly align the walls and corners of the nest
- Remove the chamfer 3 mm at both ends of the rear legs B and at the lower ends of the front legs, as specified in the drawing above.
Tsargi, Predes, Crossbars and Plates Back
In this paragraph, a large section will be presented on how to make a chair, that is, the production of the main structure. The drawing of the chair with all sizes will be presented, the diagram of the connection of the elements.
- From the material with a thickness of 18 mm, drink the front king with, front and rear podes D, side Tsargi E and side prodes F to the following sizes: C - 18x76x419 - 1 pc., D - 18x38x419 - 2 pcs., E - 18x76x406 - 2 pcs. , F - 18x38x406 - 3 pcs.
- From the board with a thickness of 45 mm, drink two blanks 76 × 419 mm for the top and bottom crossbar of the back of the back G, N. Save trimming of blanks that have the same thickness and widths for the manufacture of test spikes.
- In order not to spoil the manufacture of chairs from the tree, you need to practice slightly. Using the groove disk, try cutting out the trial spikes on trimming with a thickness of 18 mm in size specified below in the figure.
- If paragraph 3 has passed successfully and you checked, as these spikes include in the legs of the legs, then drink the spikes on the parts of C, D, E, F themselves and later in the details I.
- In order for the design of the chair to be beautiful, mark arcs on the lower edges of the front C and side F CARG. Drink them with a ribbon saw and pass the contour.
- Without changing the settings of the saw machine, cut the spikes with a depth of 6 mm on the billets of the backbone of the back of the G, H in the places indicated on the crossbar pattern. Drink the same shoulders on trimming 45 mm thick for the manufacture of test spikes.
- Set the depth of the sawing of 10 mm and cut the first spike cheap on the front side of the crossbar and cropping with a thickness of 45 mm, as shown on the template.
- Raise the groove disk on a height of 29 mm and drink the second spike cheap on the back of the trimming. Check how the spike is included in the legs socket, and change the settings if required. Then cut the second spike chip on the bar harvesting.
- Make four copies of the crossbar template for a narrow side and two copies of the template for a wide side. The aerosol glue glue the narrow patterns to the upper side of the bottom of the bottom crossbar G and to the bottom side of the upper crossbar H, connecting the halves, as shown. Drink the crossbars with a slight indent from the contour lines and save trimming.
Note. The manufacture of wooden chairs is made from different wood breeds, for example, from an oak massif, pine, birch. Figuer is often used.
- Then with a grinding drum with a diameter of 76 mm or an eccentric grinder to seet the parts to the contour lines.
- To make a template that supports curved crossbars when drilling the sockets for steaks I, sawn one of the outer crosses of the crossbar into two halves. Drill with a diameter of 6 mm drill in the crossbars of the socket, where it is indicated on the template. Please note that the nests of the lower crossbar have a length of 18 mm, and the top is 38 mm.
- Two-sided scotch and glue to the drilling machine, the appearance of the backrest crossbar. Using it as a guide, drill the nests in the backrest crossbars.
- To cut the arc on the upper edge of the crossbar n glue to it bilateral tape exterior cropping. Aerosol glue to the front side of the crossbar copy of the front contour template. Then cut the arc. Remove trimming and smooth cutting edges. Remove templates with a narrow side of both crossbars.
- For the manufacture of slats I, the sturring material to a thickness of 6 mm. Drink at the specified sizes of the bar. Put the Ship Ship 6 mm in the upper end of the planks, as well as a spike depth of 16 mm at the bottom end of the planks. (Shoulder 16 mm depth will decrease to 6 mm after giving up the definitive frames.) Lower the disc to a height of 3 mm. Drink cheeks at both ends. Check how the spikes in the nests of the upper and lower backrest are included.
Video about how to make wooden chairs with your own hands. It is very detailed, be sure to look until the end. Presented interesting chips.
- Make five copies of the contour template for planks. The aerosol glue glue the templates to the placams I, aligning them relative to the shaved shoulders at the upper end. Extend the straight line of the template to the lower end of the plank. Obilitate the details on the contour, leaving a small allowance for subsequent grinding. Delete templates.
Assembling stool
- Stick and fix the front king clamps with the front king and the front proscius D between the front legs A, and the planks i between the bottom and the upper crossbars of the back of the g, N. Check the plane and rectangle of both assemblies.
- Enclose and fix the rear podes with the rear clamps and the g / h / i assembled back between the rear legs. Check the rectangle of the assembly.
- Connect the front assembly A / C / D with the rear B / D / G / H / I, glued into the socket side tsargi E and lateral podes F (see the detailed chapecule of the chair). Check the rectangle assembly with diagonals. Before drying, leave a gluing on a flat surface.
- Drink the rear TsEGU J and pick it up to the distance between the side Tsargami E. Insert the rear king between the side, aligning the top edge flush. Drill mounting holes in the rear legs in and screw the screws.
The video about how grandfather made a steep chair with his own hand.
- Drink to the specified dimensions of the corner screeds K. Make on their ends. Opels screed with a bevel plane on a boring machine table, drill cecid holes with mounting holes in the center. Then put the parts to the edge up, fix and make in the middle of their length and thickness of the divided mounting holes.
- Install the angular screeds of 3 mm below the upper edges of the Tsarg C, E, J. Through inclined mounting holes in the screeds, drill the guide holes in the kings and screw the screws.
Come to the finishi
Well, we almost finished the manufacture of a wooden chair with their own hands.
Collect all the details of the sandpaper with the graininess of up to 220 units and a grinding pad to soften all sharp ribs. Carefully remove the dust from grinding.
If required, toned wood with a verse. Then apply two layers of transparent varnish.
Look at the video about how else you can make a wooden chair. 7 Cool options.
Add sidushu
To make your own hands l with a soft upholstery, follow the instructions below.
Having finished the upholstery of the seat, position it on the chair close to the rear legs in and in the middle between the side kings E. through the dedicated mounting holes in the angular screeds to drill the guide holes in the seat of L. Attach the seat to the angular screeds of screws.
- Step 1. Aerosol glue glue to the seat a piece of sponge with lateral cutting on trimming. Cut surplus, leaving the knife blade along the edges of the seat. Try to make a slice strictly vertically.
- Step 2. To the edges of the seat were rounded, cut up the upper sharp ribs of the sponge. To do this, with the help of a marker and a ruler, run a line with an indent 100 mm from the edge inside the seat and 25 mm down.
- Step 3. Cut the upper corners of the markup made. Hold the permanent corner of the blade, combining it with lines on the top and sideways of the sponge.
- Step 4. Put a piece of thick synthesis in size 540 × 540 mm on the workbench. Align the seat with a sponge in the center of this piece. Wrap the edges of the sintecon around the seat and grab them with brackets. Cut the surplus of the sinteration at the corners.
- Step 5. Align the seat-covered seat in the center of a piece of upholstery material 540 × 540 mm. Secure the edge of the upholstery with brackets in the middle of each side of the seat. Working from the middle of the sides to the corners, stretch the edges of the upholstery material and fix them with brackets.
- Step 6. Collect the material in the corners and cut the surplus, retreating from the seat of about 20 mm. Tensioning the upholstery balance, evenly distribute the brackets. Cut all excess material.
Examples of chairs
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« W.
throme money - in the evening chairs "! The phrase of Montere Minkovov from "12 chairs" illustrates the process of acquiring a chair with the heroes of the novel. Yes, the chair can be bought, but also the question how to make stool do it yourself - not a question for a real man!
Varieties of chairs are a lot: high and low, sophisticated and simple. For bars, cottages, offices and restaurants, all styles, models and materials. All varieties and not count! Let's still increase this diversity, and make your own chair, choosing a simple model, with a straight back and soft seat.
Why start? From the project! It is said loudly, but you need to draw a sketch and the components of our future creation.
Materials for stool with your own hands
Metallic and plastic furniture is suitable for office, industrial premises, cafe, but, significantly inferior to the tree in the natural "stateness", it is unlikely that it will be good for a residential building.
We cost and without various wood "plastics", OSP, chipboard, plywood. Even high-quality wood processing products will not compare with a real tree, its unique, warm texture. And, the main material of our chair and there will be a tree. Dry pine is suitable without bitch, beech or oak. The last two breeds are not easy to process, but the result will be solid.
We will need: Bar 40x60 mm, 40x40 mm ram, cutting board size 400x480 mm for seating and 100x420 for backrest. The thickness of the board is 10-15 mm. Further, thick foam leaf in the size of the seating, dense fabric for upholstery. And expendable: screws, glue, sandpaper.
The planed beam can be purchased ready, but you can independently treat the usual, stealing the planer and polishing the sandpaper. For rough grinding, paper No. 100-120 is suitable, and the final shine will give numbers from 220 and above.
Tool required for the manufacture of chair with their own hands
Before starting to work, it is necessary to provide yourself with a necessary tool. You will need:
Plane;
saw with a small tooth;
chisels;
sandpaper with grain of various size;
Building stapler with brackets.
As an additional device, make a chair with your own hands help:
Screw clamps - Conductors.
Making chair with your own hands how to make a chair
We scream four bars. Two 800 mm long, a cross section of 40x60 - billets for the rear legs and two to 440 mm, cross section of 40x40 - billets for the front legs. See fig. 1. First cut into them the grooves under longitudinal, transverse bases and prodes. The bases of the bases and grooves of pripec should be located in the same level. To do this, fold the bars together so that their ends of the nose legs exactly coincided. After that, we conceal the pencil. Sizes of grooves: 20x40 mm, depth 15-20 mm. The inner edge of the grooves must retreat 10 mm from the inner face of the legs.
Master Tom Maclafin has developed a project of this chair, combining the elements of different furniture styles and without sacrificing the ease of beauty. With the help of templates, it is easy to make curvilinear details. For the manufacture of compounds, Tom uses three machines: a ribbon saw, round and rolling machines (instead of the latter you can use a drilling machine with a slot nozzle). After completing the carpentry part of the work, add a chair with a comfortable seat, which is manufactured by a simple and proven method.
Before sawing, think well
The design of the chair consists of many details that require attention and concentration in their manufacture and fit. That's what Tom advises.
Purify the shape of legs
1. Focusing on the schemes, draw the contours of the back leg BUT real size (Fig. 1).Get the drawing to the 6-millimeter organic and cut the template, placing the position of the sockets on it. Circuit the contours of the template on the blank of the back leg and drink the ribbon saw, driving down next to the contour line. Then drink the second rear leg.
Tom advises! To achieve a better appearance, a texture pattern on the front side of both rear legs should be mirrored symmetrical. To do this, when marking the CONTURES of the WTOswarm legs flip pattern by changing its ends in some places (Photo A.). Then you need to position a few legs near the width of the board. This guarantees the receipt of pair parts, similar to reflection in the mirror (Photo B).
2. Two-sided scotch and glue the template to the drunk leg blank. Secure the mill in the table installed on the table long
pouring milling with bearing and adjust its departure, equalizing the bearing with the edge of the template. Treat the rear legs along the contour until the final form. Pencil marry the top and bottom of each leg, remove the template and pass the legs to the contour lines.
3. Drink the front legs AT ("List of Materials" and fig. one).Put those their front faces. Tilt the drive of the saw machine at an angle of 7 ° and describe the source on the outside of each leg so that the front edge becomes wider than the rear. Without changing the inclination of the disc, drink under the same veil of trimming two wedge-shaped strips with a length of 250-300 mm, which will be required when sampling the nests in the legs.
Drink the blanks of the details of the back
1. cut down the bottom crossbar WITH backs (Fig. 4),but for now, do not hide on its upper face. Follow the position of the four sockets.
2. Drink the upper crossbar D. backs (Fig. 5)with a switch of 10 mm in length. Make two copies of the upper crossbar template. Enclose one copy to the bottom face, but so far do not drink a curvilinear form.
3. For medium board E. and side bars F. backrests make a blank measuring 13 x 178 x 533 mm (Fig. 6).You will disconnect lateral bars later after drinking spikes.
Choose all the nests
1. Follow the position of the nests on the legs A, B. (Fig. 1 and2) , remembering that the details must be mirror copies.
2. Select a 10 mm front digit socket G. in the front legs In (photo with, fig. 2).Turn the front leg AT So that her beveling edge adjacent to the resistance at the table of a slump or drilling machine (PhotoD.) and make a 10-mm nest at an angle for lateral tsargi N.Do the same with the second front leg.
Wedges will help install parts to the right position.
So that the walls of the nest were parallel to the front face, put the leg with a bevelled face down, laying the bar of the wedge-shaped section.
Put the detail of the front face on the wedge and use the second to secure in the clamp. Do not use the second wedge, if there is no such clamp on your machine.
3. If you do not have a sufficiently large pruning of the workpiece, which remains from drinking the rear legs, make a curvilinear support (CULAU) size of 90 × 525 mm (photo E)from trimming, the thickness of which is equal to or slightly less than the thickness of the legs. It will help hold the leg under the desired angle when saming the socket for the side tsargi.
Transfer the extreme labels of the socket for the kings on the cutting board, circle the legs pattern and cut the curvilinear Tsulapi tape saw.
Align the slot markup lines on the leg and Culam. If the leg relies on the tabletop, the nest will be chosen at an angle.
4. Using the curvilinear support (PhotoF.), choose in the back leg BUT 10 mm Nest for Side Tsargi N.. Do the same with the second back leg.
5. For sampling of 10 mm nests for the lower backrest WITH In the rear legs BUT Press the flat facet of the legs (in which you just made the previous nest) to the load of the machine and select the socket on the inside of the part.
6. Make an 8-mm nest for the upper crossbar D. backs in the top of the rear legs BUT On the inside, pressing the front side of the part.
7. Select 6-mm nests in the lower crossbar WITH backrest for medium board E. and side bars F (Fig. 4).
8. Make the same 6-millimeter nests on the bottom face of the top crossbar D. For medium boards E (Fig. 5).Making nests for lateral bars F., Insert the wedge with an angle of 4 ° between the crossbar D. and emphasis (Step 2).
Now drink spikes
1. Make a simple stitching device, shown in the "Spice the spikes safe and simply".
2. To cut the spikes of three sizes, make three spacers with a thickness of 6, 8 and 10 mm from trimming, as well as a spacer, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the saw blade. Spacer width - 75-100 mm.
To drink 10-millimeter spikes on the kings g, n Select the spacer of the required thickness for the first propyl. Before the second damp, remove it.
3. Drink the front G. and side N.seat tsargi (Fig. 7).Holding a hand or clamp the corresponding spacers between the device and the detail (PhotoG.), blink under the twig of 90 ° spikes on the ends of the front G. and side N.tsarg, Nizhnya WITH And top D. Packed backrest, as well as on the harvesting of the middle board and side bars E / F. backs (Fig. 4, 5, 6and 7).
Note. On side tsargs N. Form the spikes at an angle of 90 ° only at the front end of the details.
(Although the spikes of the upper crossbar of the back should have a final length of 17 mm, at this stage, make them 22 mm long so as not to configure the saw machine specifically for this.)
Tom advises! Having done on trial trimming, cuts, forming spike cheaps, remove the extra material using a ribbon saw, but leave the allowctor to the battery of about 6 mm to avoid cropping the trimming between the disk and the longitudinal focus of the saw machine. Check the fit of the trial spikes to the appropriate sockets. If the spike is inserted too loose, stir up one or two strips of the painting tape on the spacer and drink another trial spike.
Using the same settings, but tilting the saw blade to an angle of 7 °, press the external side of the tsargi to the adaptation and cut the spike cheaps.
4. Attach a wooden lining to the head (corner) stop and make a wooden lining and make the top and upper crossbars. C, D., in the workpiece for medium boards and side bars E / F., as well as in the front king G. Duties forming spikes.
5. Tilt the saw blade at an angle of 7 ° from the vertical and scrapping the spikes of a thickness of 10 mm in the rear end of the side Tsarg N. (Photo H).
6. Without changing the slope of the saw blade, form at the angle of the front and rear spikes on the side kings (PhotoI., J., TO).
Make the first dug so that the disk can barely touch spikes. With the help of a small ladder knife, extend the line at an angle of 7 ° to the rib where the second shoulder should be made. Finally, place the item on the other side of the disk and cut the second player on the markup.
7. Increase the angle of inclination of the saw disk to 8 °. Form the cheeks and brazy spikes with a thickness of 6 mm at the bottom end of the shaft of the medium board and side bars E / F. just like in steps 5.and 6 (Fig. 6a).Return the saw blade into vertical position and longitudinal saws. Separate side bars. F. From each edge of the workpiece. With the help of jigsaw and the chisels, make a cut in the middle of a wide spike at both ends of the midline E (Fig. 6)and add 6 mm wide cutouts at the edges (see the "Master Council" below).
Make the first transverse dug dug off from one longitudinal dug to the rear edge of the other. Then disconse the rest.
Touch the skills of working with manual tools for accurate fitting
Make a cut in the middle of a wide spike only with the help of machine tools or power tools is not easy. There is a better solution. Tape saw or well-sharpened training saw. Make rods to spikes, then use the jigsaw, the narrow peel of which will easily turn in the propylene to remove unnecessary, leaving a small allowance at the base. Finally, with the help of the chisels, cut the residue to the left with the shoulders.
Select the chisel inside at a low angle. This guarantees the joint density along the leaf line.
8. Form the upper spikes on the front and lateral kardes G., H (Fig. 7).Shug down the ends of the spikes of the upper crossbar D. by 5 mm.
9. Dry (without glue) Collect the framework of the chair, causing the spikes of too tight connections using a zenzubel or a file. First, insert the middle board and the side bars in the nests of the top and bottom crossbar of the back, and then adjust the spikes of the crossbar to the back legs. Then make a fit of the Tsarg spikes to the legs of the legs. Having finished fitting all connections, disconnect the details.
Treat all curvilinear contours and narrowing
1. Use the ribbon saw to form curvilinear surfaces on the front and rear sides of the upper crossbar D. Backless, and then smoothly span.
Clicking three fingers to the front of the part, swipe the line parallel to the front edge.
2. Cut the second copy of the upper crossbar template to a piece of 6 mm organitis and sculpt along the contour. Using this template, mark the border of the curly bevel on the top and rear sides of the part. Marking line on the upper side should be parallel to the front edge (PhotoL.). Tilt the table of the ribbon saw at an angle 27 0 and describe the SCOS along both lines. Smoothly pass all curvilinear surfaces.
3. Once insolent and describe the ribbon saw of the squeaks at an angle of 16 ° in the ends of the lower crossbar C (Fig. 4).Then tilt the drive of the saw machine at an angle of 22 ° and describe the longitudinal squeezes. Remove sequence traces with a small ruble. Using the upper crossbar template, mark the arc on the lower edge of the lower crossbar. Drink the arc with a ribbon saw and smoothly polish.
4. Using a ribbon saws, make narrowings on the rear BUT and front AT legs (Fig. 1and 2). Smoothly pollute or rudd by sculpted face.
Consistently spin the chamders of different widths on the markup. Then, with the help of a small ruble and cycle, gradually cross the transitions between them.
5. Put the labels on the back of the rear legs BUT At a distance of 178, 470 and 533 mm from the top ends. Secure the edge milling milling milling milling milling milling milling mill and twist the chamorts of different widths (on both sides of each leg): 6 mm wide from the top to the mark of 533 mm, 8 mm wide between marks 178 and 533 mm, 11 mm widths from Mark 470 to the last (Photo M).
At the mark of 533 mm using a semicircular rashpile raw and graduate, seeking smooth rounding.
Note. At the top end, the legs of the chamfer and medium flat graph should be the same width. Do not make a chamfer too broad so that it does not appear below the line of the left seat of the seat.
6. With the help of a permeable ruble, make small chamfer around the lower ends of all legs A, B.. At the upper end of the rear legs BUT Ostress the champers width 3 mm in front and sides (Fig. 1).Then ostrive the champecker with a width of 12 mm rear.
7. Finally, polish all the details of the emery paper No. 220 with a grinding pad.
Tom advises! Before the last stage of grinding, change all the surfaces to raise the pile. This will avoid raising vorsa when deleting the wet sponge of the glue, and you will not have to engage in grinding in uncomfortable places around the connections.
Go to the assembly and finishing
1. Plore the spikes of the medium board E. and side bars F. In the nests of the top and lower crossbar D, S. backs. Then glue this assembly with the rear legs BUT. Plore the front Tsarga G. Between the front legs AT. After thorough drying, stick the spikes of the side Tsarg N. In the nests of the front and rear legs B, A., Fixing the collected frame of the chair with clamps.
2. Drink the front and rear corner ties I, J. And install them in place using glue and screws to enhance the connections of the legs with the kings and simplify the installation of the seat.
3. Apply any finishing coating of your choice. (Tom recommends three layers of the "Danish" oil or any wild politician.)
4. Make the base of the seat to and cover it (Fig. 3and 9). Having finished the upholstery, attach the seat to the angular screed I, J. 4.5 × 50 mm screws.
Templates
About the author of the project
Tom Maclaflin began professionally engaged in joinery craft in North Carolina, first copying classic samples made by famous XVIII century masters. Now Tom lives in New Hempshire, where he is engaged in the training of carpenter in its own workshop - a large three-story mansion, surrounded by maples, birch and oaks. He likes to develop and produce new chairs more than everything else. "The complexity of the task is to make them most comfortable and flawlessly looking from all sides - it wakes up a real creative excitement in me." He designed more than two tens of chairs, who earned numerous awards in design contests.
If you go to the furniture store, then a wide range of different models of wooden furniture will be thrown into the eyes. Beautiful chairs are a lot: ranging from stools and ending with elite models. However, such beauty requires large cash costs. Therefore, to decorate the interior of the room, you can create a chair from wood with your own hands. To make it, you need to have certain materials and tools.
There are different methods allowing to do. Choosing a way, you need to be guided by style, as well as its purpose. Work should begin with a drawing of a future design, where all the dimensions of the parts must be indicated, their number necessary for the work of the materials. The success of the work depends on the quality of the drawing.
Necessary materials and tools
When you need to make a chair with the help of a tree with your own hands, you need to use wood only hardwood. The main material is considered to be wood, well dried and having no bitch. For the manufacture of furniture usually choose:
- pine;
It is very hard to treat an oak or beech, but the furniture from such a tree with their own hands is solid and reliable. To, you need to have:
- two bars;
- dense upholstery fabric;
- foam rubber from which the seat is done;
- boards of different sizes;
- sandpaper;
- furniture glue;
- saws.
Brussia can be bought in the construction market. Then they need to be processed so that they are absolutely smooth. To do this, they are grinding to obtain roughness. First, the timber grinds the shallow sandpaper (fits №100). The final brilliance of Brusa will give the sandpaper №220.
Any job in order to make a chair from the tree with their own hands, requires tools:
- sandpaper;
- stapler;
- hacksaw;
- conductors,
- wooden mystery;
- chisel;
- plane.
Back to the category
Technology and work features
How to make a chair? First you need to prepare two bar. The bars of the rear legs should have dimensions of 800x40x60. The front legs, the size of the bars must be equal to 440x40x40 mm.
In the bars, grooves intended for prodrice and bases (both longitudinal and transverse) are cut down. All grooves must be made on the same level. To achieve this, you need to lay them together, ends of the legs must necessarily coincide. Then placed the place where the grooves will be made. Their dimensions are 20x40x15 mm. The inner part of the groove should have an indentation from the inside of the leg. Typically takes 10 mm.
For fastening the bases, the legs must have grooves. In each foot there should be two. The manufacture of grooves is performed at the corresponding ends of the legs. After graduation, the base will have a form of a rectangle. On each vertex the leg will be installed. For the manufacture of grooves the chisel is used. Then the grooves are released from chips that have fallen in them in the manufacture.
Rear legs need to be slightly correcting. To this end, along the entire length of the leg, ranging from the groove, made at the top, and ending with the lower groove, the face is constrained. The result is a smooth transition, the size should be reduced and equal to 40 mm.
After the manufacture of legs are made two proders, two longitudinal bases are harvested. For this purpose, four brus are made with dimensions of 350x40x40 mm. Each end must have a mark for spikes. The spikes are made by a chisel from sliced \u200b\u200bblanks.
Sizes of spikes should be made according to the size of the grooves. They must be tight in the groove. The presence of backlash is prohibited.
Then two brus are harvested with dimensions of 420x40x40 mm. They are needed for the manufacture of transverse base. For such bars, spikes are also cut.
The next operation will be the manufacturer of the back. It is better made of edged board. Dishes dimensions - 420x80x100 mm. In the rear legs displaced the grooves of the desired width. The backrest is inserted into them.
The fastening of the seating is carried out by self-drawing, and they should be screwed from below. To make it easier to twist the screws and give the chair additional rigidity, special discolutions are inserted between the bases.
To make a beautiful appearance, the legs of the chair must be rounded and then chop up. The same operation must be carried out with the basis. Fully finished parts need to be coated with furniture varnish, and then subjected to polishing.
One of the last steps is the manufacture of a soft seat. A seat is peaked out of a sheet of thick plywood, the billet of the foam rubber corresponding to the form is also made. When the chair is made, approximately 15 cm are retreating from the edge. Then the Phaneur turns along with the foam rubber to the furniture cloth.
The material is fixed by the stapler on the reverse side of the base.
Experience shows that when a tree stool is done with their own hands, you should always remember about the environment. The fact is that the coating varnish causes a very strong unpleasant smell. Neighbors will not be delighted. Therefore, all painting work is best done outside the apartment. For example, in a garage or shed.
Recently, special varnishes appeared, the basis of which is water. They do not smell.
From the harvested ladded parts is assembling the chair. The spikes are covered with glue and inserted into the grooves. All items are knocked down by a wooden Cyan.
If you use a metal hammer, then its shock part must be closed with a soft cloth. Otherwise, you can damage the lacquer coating. The fastening of the seating and the back is carried out by screws.
These chairs have very simple and durable structures. The rear legs and backs are made of one piece of wood, 25 mm thick. It is best to make a pedestal foot pattern, and cut it with a ribbon saw.
The next task is to make edges by semicircular. With the help of a milling machine and the corresponding cutter, make a semicircle on the legs of the chair.
The back of the chair is a bit more complicated, so in the process of the clamp, align immediately, observe the evenness.
The front legs and jumpers are slightly smoother and collect. Pay attention to two small clamps on the corners, this is done in order to be complete contact when gluing.
The next step of the front and rear parts are connected. Be sure to place the stool on the flat surface. If the chair is a bit uneven, and more precisely will fluctuate, then you can set the clip diagonally to compensate in the opposite direction.
After everything is glued, and the glue will dry completely, remove the excess glue by the bit. It is better to leave glue until it fails to completely dry, so as not to risk it to spread to a wider area wiping it.
The next important point is the seat for seating.
The seat is actually a simple square piece of wood, 42.5 cm along the fiber 42 cm across the fibers with a thickness of 16 mm, and the rear angles cut.
To install the seat, glue another fastening on the apron, in which the holes must be drilled for fastening the seat. The holes are made even so that when changing humidity does not cracked in the clamping places with self-reversals.
